The New King Seiko 2022 Watch

Photo: Monochrome

King Seiko

Numerous collectors have a soft spot in their hearts for the moniker King Seiko. Seiko’s creation of an intra-company battle between its 2 workshops in the 1960s to foster creativity with the aim of creating the greatest timepieces possible is among the most well-known episodes in the brand’s heritage. To achieve this mission, Seiko’s Daini shop manufactured high-end luxurious timepieces under the King Seiko brand, whereas the Suwa production developed the Grand Seiko company.

Photo: Fratello

While Seiko eventually stopped producing the King Seiko collection in the 1970s, the series was brought back in 2020 with a special edition replica. Afterward, it officially revived this high-end line in the company’s inventory in 2021 with a set of standard-production King Seiko pieces. Finally, for 2022, Seiko launched two additional King Seiko watches to the collection; a brand-new limited-edition variant (SJE087) and a special-edition clock featuring a spectacular purple dial (SPB291).

• The case

The revolutionary King Seiko SJE087 is a perfect recreation of the vintage King Seiko KSK timepiece from 1965. It comes in a 38.1-millimeter stainless steel casing, much like the iconic limited-edition piece from 2020. While just 3,000 units of the 2020 launch were made, there will be fewer pieces of the King Seiko SJE087. Besides, the new variant will be only made in 1,700 units.

Photo: Monochrome

Nevertheless, the innovative King Seiko SJE087 has a Zaratsu-finished casing with a caseback that comprises a gold plaque. This evokes the shield pattern of the previous model, precisely much like the 2020 special edition. Additionally, the box-like sapphire crystal, the signature pull/push crown, and the screw-down caseback all combine to give this limited-run watch a rather typical 50 meters of waterproofing.

Photo: Monochrome

On the other hand, the unlimited King Seiko SPB291 has a casing built on the recognizable acute and angular style of 1960s King Seiko timepieces. However, it is 37 millimeters wide and does not have the golden caseback decoration present in the limited-edition model. In view of this, the King Seiko SPB291 provides double the waterproofing just like its limited-edition predecessor boasting an official certification of 100 meters. This is despite being significantly thinner at 10.33 millimeters against 11.4-millimeter thickness.

• Dial 

The dials of all these latest King Seiko timepieces stand out and boast the company’s trademark finely edged dauphine indicators, as one would anticipate from products made by Seiko. Similarly, the dial on SJE087 has gold-polished indexes, hour markings, as well as a light champagne tint. Clearly, this is the biggest distinction from the last King Seiko from 2020, which had a silver dial featuring fully white-metal highlights. Moreover, the yellow-gold hands and markings and the radial sunray design on the champagne dial combine to produce a cozier but more antique overall aesthetic.

Photo: Ablogtowatch

In addition, the new King Seiko SPB291 boasts what is likely a unique dial alternative. This is despite being quite a “special edition” instead of a true limited-edition variant. It has a dial that Seiko refers to as “Tenjin-fuji violet,” which was prompted by the wisteria that grows in the Kameido Tenjin Shrine at Kameido, Japan, where King Seiko’s timepieces first originated. Moreover, this SPB291 comes with refined dauphine-like hands and finely crafted dial decor, just like its limited-edition sister.

Photo: Ablogtowatch

The King Seiko SPB291 dial also has a very remarkable design, polished with a radial sunray motif and a gentle gradient accent that provides a darker purple color near its exterior edge. This is despite not generally having a highly detailed surface design or a rich tone.

• Movement 

The movement that powers the King Seiko SJE087, as well as its non-limited SPB291 sister, is among the largest variances between the 2 pieces. The Caliber 6R31 movement, effectively the time-only variant of the Caliber 6R35 seen within a range of other contemporary Seiko timepieces, is housed under the purple dial of the King Seiko SPB291. The Cal. 6R31 is an improved, no-date edition of Seiko’s current workhorse movement, striking at a rate of 21,600 mph and featuring a power reserve of roughly 70 hours. While it also offers dependable performance and accurate time management, it simply is not all that unique on its own.

Photo: Ablogtowatch

On the contrary, the limited-run King Seiko SJE087 features the Caliber 6L35, a movement that is very distinct from those present in the majority of Seiko’s timepieces. The Cal. 6L35 has a lesser power reserve of about 45 hours despite operating at a greater rate of 28,800 mph. Nevertheless, because of its high frequency, it can provide better timekeeping, including a certified grade of -10/+15 seconds each day as opposed to the Caliber 6R31’s -15/+25 seconds. On the King Seiko SJE087, the Caliber 6L35 likewise incorporates a date display visible via a gold-framed aperture at the three o’clock position.

• The strap and bracelet

The new King Seiko series comes with a stainless steel multi-link bracelet that closely resembles the one featured on the classic 1965 version, which assists in completing its very retro-like look. The faceted linkages feature a brushed surface with refined bevels and taper from the casing to the foldable clasp. The two models also comprise vintage-inspired leather straps that attach with a King Seiko-branded pin fastening as a backup option.

Bottom Line

In general, we appreciate that Seiko has revived the King Seiko concept. And the fact that it was done in such a caring and courteous manner gives us even more cause for joy. The 37-millimeter-sized casing appears well-proportioned even on a wrist that large. Likewise, the dials are entertaining and have a nice selection of colors. As a result, you won’t regret whether you choose the classic silver color of the initial or a bold crimson red.

Photo: Fratello

Essentially dial variations of current variants, these latest King Seiko devices contribute to the company’s freshly revitalized range of high-end pieces. A champagne dial featuring gold hour markings and hands distinguishes the limited-edition SJE087 from the limited-edition King Seiko wristwatch from 2020. The unlimited “special edition” SPB291 is almost similar to the typical King Seiko version, except that it now comes with a stunning purple dial motivated by wisteria.