Ronaldinho wearing a 42mm Cartier Santos 100 XL

Retired Brazilian football legend Ronaldinho is wearing a 42mm Cartier Santos 100 XL Chronograph in stainless steel featuring a VS1-VS2 clarity diamond-set bezel.

The ivory Roman chronograph dial features a date, hour, minute, second, and chronometer.

Overall Review

The French jeweler and designer, Cartier manufactured the very first men’s timepiece, the Cartier Santos, in 1911, giving it the most coveted chronological title of any watch company. Although Rolex and other brands have since made some unique advanced technologies, Cartier was the pioneer.

In 2019, Cartier introduced a chronograph to the renowned men’s line after giving the Santos new designs in 2018. The innovative Cartier Santos has discovered an exquisite way to substitute the traditional two-pusher Chrono design with a customized edition of its mechanical 1904-CH MC caliber. It is more expansive, thicker, and incomparably sporty.

Later, the timepiece Cartier had ordered from their friend Louis Cartier in 1904 for Brazilian aviator Santos-Dumont evolved into one of the most well-known and lasting Cartier symbols of all time. Santos-Dumont wanted a timepiece he could carry while flying his plane without removing his hand from the control system. As a result, the Santos is remembered for being the first pilot piece and a forerunner of the gentleman’s watch. This is because its square casing with transparent screws defied the trend for round pocket clocks.

The movement of the Cartier Santos 100 XL Chronograph is one of its most outstanding features. The start and stop function is placed on the left side of the casing, aligned to complement the crown. In addition, the resetting feature was incorporated into the crown body, thanks to recent modifications made by Cartier to the 1904-CH MC caliber.

As a result, the Cartier Santos 100 XL Chronograph has gained both mechanical and ergonomic advantages. This also gives the casing a lovely feeling of symmetry that is frequently missing in several other sporty pieces. Furthermore, this watch’s continuous horn curving, rounded dial edges, and visible screws give it an iconic design that will continue to inspire various variations for years to come.

On the casing, clasp, and bezel of this Cartier Santos 100 XL Chronograph, VS1-VS2 diamonds have been added. Similarly, the dial, which is instantly recognizable as a Cartier clock, elegantly displays all the details about the passing of time. Compared to the snailed and somewhat sunken settings of the 30-second and 12-hour counters, as well as the small supplementary seconds with date feature at 6 o’clock, the squared area of the dial has a polished silver finish.

Additionally, Cartier’s decision to replace the usual blued-steel indexes with broader, sword-shaped hands treated with lume was wise. Also, the Roman numerals are brighter to match the watch’s sporting aesthetic, while the iconic minute hand has been moved to the edge.

Lastly, Cartier Santos 100 XL Chronograph has an alligator leather strap. It also has an intriguing patterned rubber strap featuring screws at both the ends of the first connections to mimic the screws on the bezel.

Price market: $15,000.00 USD

Watch reference: W20090X8

Photo: Ronaldo de Assis Moreira