Fashion mogul Karl Lagerfeld – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo

Late German fashion mogul Karl Lagerfeld, who by many was regarded as one of the most influential persons of the 20th century, is in this photo from 1979 wearing a blacked-out Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo reference 5402ST.

This appears to be an early attempt to use PVD in a timepiece, way before the Royal Oak Offshore ‘End of Days’ was released in 1999, which was the first black PVD watch on the market. It is not certain 100% that the watch belonged to Karl Lagerfeld himself, but he was often seen with it, and it will be on-sold at auction for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak later in May this year.

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About the Watch

It was almost a year after Gérald Genta notably drafted the idea for the “exceptional steel timepiece” before the 1971 Basel watch fair when the luxury sports watch was officially launched in 1972. The Royal Oak is widely regarded as the first luxurious watch, having been inspired by classic diving helmets and sporting an octagonal casing with visible screw heads as well as an incorporated band. It launched the pattern that has now become the much-loved norm.

The version of the Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet’s most authentic tribute to the original ever. It’s still in production, gaining numerous timepiece fans worldwide.

With a casing diameter that matches the original’s 39mm, most would be tempted to think both watches were identical. This size was initially deemed large in the early 1970s, contributing to collectors dubbing the original “Jumbo,” particularly when compared to the flawless finish of the steel case and bracelet. It features a blending of refined and satin-brushed coatings that capture and reflect the light like no other steel timepiece before it.

As a result, it gives the modern-day Royal Oak Jumbo a not-so-subtle sparkle that is lively and refined at the same time. The superb craftsmanship isn’t limited to the outside, as the classic “Petite Tapisserie” pattern dial in deep blue provides a fascinating contrast. However, a few shades appear darker than other Royal Oak brands. Even so, the same self-winding movement that was first utilized over 40 years ago is still present.

A collaboration between Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe resulted in the caliber 2121. With a 40-hour power reserve, a comprehensive skeletonized rotor, and exquisite finishing that, while not unduly ornate, nevertheless serves to thrill the eyes under a sapphire crystal display back. On the other hand, the extra-thin movement makes for an extra-thin 8.1mm casing thickness. If there has to be one, the only disadvantage is that there is no fast-set date. However, this date can be altered by rapidly rotating the duration between 10 pm and 2 am.

With excellent dimensions, fine workmanship, and a dependable movement, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo continues to please timepiece enthusiasts. This is both on and off the wrist, reaffirming its rank as a much-coveted gem among collectors. In the field of luxury sports timepieces, it stands out as genuine royalty.

Photo: Getty Images