Home » A Brief Tour of “The King of Diamonds” Modern History in Five Watches: Graff

A Brief Tour of “The King of Diamonds” Modern History in Five Watches: Graff

Graff is famous for creating diamond history through a continuing role call of important diamonds. Photo: Getty Images

Graff is a company that specializes in buying, cutting, cleaning, and placing some of the rarest and most distinctive diamonds on Earth. It was primarily established in London in 1960. Later, the company expanded its product line beyond jewelry to include magnificent, heavily jeweled timepieces. From there, it started selling complex, inventive pieces as well.

The House of Graff’s tremendous accomplishment is due to Laurence Graff’s natural knowledge of diamonds. This also includes his emphasis on ideally proportional cuts, which maximize each stone’s brightness, color, and general excellence. It is reasonable that when Graff shifted its attention to watchmaking, Maison’s watches would exhibit the similar innovative designs, unwavering accuracy, and top-notch artistry we have all come to expect from the label.

With Michel Pitteloud in charge (renowned for his work with prestigious companies like Bulgari, Harry Winston, and Corum), Graff established a watchmaking branch in 2008. The initial lines were unveiled in 2009.

Graff Luxury watches are modeled around the firm’s renowned finely cut gemstones. In order to avoid purchasing or dealing rough diamonds from regions where doing so might foster strife, the corporation abides by the Kimberley procedure. Each Graff diamond also has a GIA reference number, which is laser etched and preserves its lineage while staying undetectable to the human eye.

In keeping with their concept, Graff’s timepieces aim to produce artworks rather than mechanical devices. These works of art should not only perform as timepieces but also showcase Graff’s unique competence in the realm of diamonds and gemstones.

Thus, here is a brief tour of the modern history of Graff in five watches:

  1. The Diamond GyroGraff Tourbillon

This timepiece is the new edition to the MasterGraff line, and it is only available in 20 sets of pink gold with 20 pieces of white gold. The components in this series are as exquisite as the fabled two-axis Tourbillon complexity. They also do a fantastic job of interpreting the subtle artistic score made up of facets and patterns.

The seventy-two 8.03-carat diamonds aspects, which have served as the label’s distinguishing features ever since they were first used in manufacturing, have been fully set. They surround a 48-mm casing center that contrasts with the relatively traditional guilloché dial’s deep black color without forgoing incorporating modern flourishes and reliefs.

The window at 5 o’clock, which is devoted to the tourbillon, is situated precisely to the one placed at 8 o’clock, which is close to the moon phase. This provides assurance of ideal balancing in the lower portion of the watch. In a manual-winding caliber, the power reserve is shown by a tiny indicator at 11 o’clock.

The Diamond GyroGraff Tourbillon. Photo: Getty Images


  1. The Diamond Paved MasterGraff Ultra Flat Tourbillon

The model was introduced in 2013 in a limited run of 50 units. The lugs on the 2014 iteration of the similar version, measuring 4 mm wide and 6.95 mm in thickness, are fully studded with diamonds. Platinum 1000 or pink gold are the two options.

The Graff 4 caliber, the tourbillon’s movement, can only be seen through the frame window. This is a unique, hand-wounded, 3.5 mm tourbillon system created by the label’s watchmakers.

Photo: GPHG


  1. MasterGraff Grand Date Dual Time Tourbillon

This model helped the company maintain its position among the top Swiss manufacturing labels. The Graff caliber 5 movement is housed in the manual core of scientific manufacturing. It is a tribute to the minute engineering brilliance of skilled designers without compromising the Graff brand. A soaring tourbillon, the display of a seconds time zone, and a huge date that is tastefully positioned directly over the trademark Graff triangle combine to create this user-friendly 43 mm solid pink golden complex piece.

Photo: Masterhorologer


  1. Graff Minute Repeater

The hand-wounded Minute Repeater watch from Graff Diamonds Corporation’s manufacturing branch, which has been in business since 2008, also has a flying tourbillon. A moving bolt placed at 9 o’clock on Graff’s recognizable facet bezel activates the minute repeater, among the most intricate repeater systems in watchmaking. Two mallets strike two gongs to play the hours, quarter hours, as well as minutes in a range of lower and higher tones.

A flying tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock, mother-of-pearl links, an alligator band, and an open-work face in grey or smoky blue acrylic are all features of this remarkable line, which was made in Geneva. It is also offered in diamond-set and non-diamond variants. The diamond design features 256 unique jewels, totaling 20.07 carats, sliced and manually fitted by Graff’s unmatched gem-setters. Bezel alternatives comprise 18k rose and white gold.

Photo: Masterhorologer


  1. Graff MasterGraff Floral Tourbillon

The intricate and passionate communication of flowers has long been an inspiration for Graff’s jewelry creation. It follows logically that this most traditional of ornamental elements is also ideal for use in keeping time, as eloquently shown by the latest Floral Tourbillon series of timepieces from Graff.

The touch, finishing, and balance of the timepieces have also received careful study in addition to their flora-inspired designs. This necessitates ongoing communication and cooperation among the London atelier with the Geneva craftspeople.

The outcome is a gorgeous timepiece with smoothly curved hands and rotating flowers as decorations are created. The enamel blossoms are made using an antiquated yet incredibly difficult process, producing a color that is unique to every piece.

A dial might take up to 50 hours to finish once the designer has polished the colors. The flowers are likewise hand-cut of white gold by the same artisan, with each petal individually painted and treated.

Photo: The Jewellery Editor


Bottom Line

Graff timepieces are made in Geneva, the world’s center for high-end watches, and are modeled after the conventional diamond cut’s distinctive facetted shape, which is both traditional and modern. Every item has a superb Swiss movement and is embellished with diamonds chosen by Graff gemologists.

Graff pieces have a unique case form, but they also have numerous other distinguishing characteristics, like a diamond-tipped crown as well as a faceted translucent sapphire crystal case back. All Graff timepieces bear the distinctive triangle cut emerald placed at the 12 o’clock position.

Shop our favorite products

Subjects in this article: