Introducing Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph

Photo: Monochrome

The inaugural SeaQ variants from German manufacturer Glashütte Original (GO) were unveiled in 2019, marking a shift from the company’s more opulent, dressier watches. The brand hadn’t recently added a revolving bezel to a timepiece, and the release of the latest model coincided with the height of the classic reissue trend.

One could have been understood for assuming that GO was capitalizing on a popular trend if it weren’t for the notion that the SeaQ was unveiled as a member of a new, fifth long-term series. However, over the 3 years after that, the company has shown its dedication to the Spezialist line by increasing its selection of diving watches. In short, it has recently expanded the collection by including the Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph.

Photo: Monochrome

Integrating a diving bezel and a Chrono is nothing unusual. Companies including Longines, Hamilton, and Doxa, among numerous others, began fusing the two aspects during the late 1960s as tool pieces gained popularity. Since then, the dual-style concept has experienced waves of popularity.

There is no proof that Glashütte Original produced a SeaQ chronograph during the 1960s (unlike the SeaQ diver). However, historical timepieces influence this device’s design. The 1969 Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which served as the model for the SeaQ diver’s broad arrow minute pointer, short hour hand, and hour indicators (open ‘6’), are all exact replicas of that watch. Both the handset and the appliqué hour markings include Super-LumiNova.

Photo: Monochrome

Moving seconds are available at nine o’clock, and a 30-minute Chrono timer at three o’clock on dual staggered subdials with grooves. The spinning second’s hand has a lumed lollipop marker, enabling the timepiece to comply with ISO 6425 and DIN 8306 standards for appropriate dive timepieces. Furthermore, the Glashütte Original insignia is a counterbalance on the flyback chronograph indicator. It is finished to complement the markers and may be adjusted without pausing the clock.

The addition of GO’s Panorama Date, which has two circularly attached wheels and displays the date on one platform at six o’clock, is noteworthy. This was shifted from the diver’s four o’clock spot to prevent it from clogging or encroaching on the subdials. A stunning PVD blue dial featuring a sunburst treatment serves as the framework for it all.

Not only is the dial inspired by vintage styles. The skin diving shape (characterized by the squared-off lug frame and straightforward faceting) and the pump keys both nod to timepieces prominent in the 1960s and 1970s. This is despite the 43.2mm casing’s indisputably current emphasis on design and artistry. Recently, those styles have become more popular, and GO undeniably gave the model some of its taste.

Photo: Hodinkee

In addition, the pumping buttons have polygonal covers and are divided from the finished chamfer by the glossy front and edges. The screw-down crown also features the GO emblem and contributes to the watch’s remarkable 300 meters waterproof rating.

On the other hand, the unidirectional bezel has a lumed triangular on front of a blue ceramic inlay that matches the dial color. The arched sapphire crystal also adds to the retro appearance. Moreover, the dome has a price, and the watch’s startling 16.95mm thickness makes it unsuitable for anyone but large wrists.

The customer’s choice of rubber is available for the Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph 21-millimeter lugs. One is a blue or grey artificial strap crafted from recycled fish lines featuring a pin clip or deployant fastening. The other is a steel bracelet with a foldable buckle and a screwless micro-adjustment system.

Photo: Hodinkee

The in-house Glashütte Original Calibre 37-23 is proudly on exhibit via a sapphire caseback. The patterned 3/4 sleeve, swan neck governor, and bimetallic oscillation mass featuring the double-G emblem are precisely what you’d anticipate from Glashütte Original. The in-house movement beats at 28,800 mph and boasts a remarkable power reserve of 70 hours.

Except for the silicon hairspring plus a few other parts that need to be manufactured with remarkable precision, nearly every element is built in-house. This dial is equally stunning in pictures as the outstanding incorporated column-wheel flyback Chrono made in-house.

Photo: Hodinkee

Overall, it’s great to see a company that isn’t well-known for tool timepieces stick with a sporting watch series such as the Spezialist line. Without compromising either, Glashütte Original has combined its superb polish with a traditional tool piece style. However, the Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is a big watch and probably won’t fit most people. Even so, it appears to be a lovely alternative for the few who would handle such a size.